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Doctor Olds to StNickless. Cho Baka to Rifleman. BonezX to thriller1. Rifleman Premium Member join p1a. I borrowed my brother's old car this week for 2 Km trips. I checked every fluid level before leaving but on the way back on the first trip the low coolant light came on and then the needle went into the red soon after. Stopping and idling brought the temp back to normal. As soon as I would get rolling again the car would overheat. I got a ride from a cop to get some antifreeze and filled the reservoir.
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After that it ran fine all the way home. I have dumped 12 liters or so into the reservoir so far. There are no visible leaks and no milky oil or exhaust steam or smell. This has me stumped. I thought maybe a hose collapsing once in awhile? I have it here in the yard to look at it but no idea what may be wrong. Premium Member join W Where were you putting the coolant?
The reservoir will not properly refill a low Radiator. The low coolant warning is serious and the engine should be shut down and have the Radiator refilled once cool. Then you top off the overflow reservoir after that. Have you ever boiled chicken? The coolant is likely going out the exhaust. Does the car have a rough idle like a cylinder isn't firing as strong as the others? Thats the weird thing about this car's design. There is no rad cap to speak ofjust the reservoir cap.
Filling the reservoir did allow the rad to draw coolant but not sure where it goes while driving. I am pretty sure the coolant is circulating enough to use the sensor. On another noteI am pretty sure there is no dipstick to check the tranny levels on this car. At least no dipstick I can find. Our 91 Cav has the same goofy design, NO radiator cap. When the coolant level gets below the LOW on the res, the check engine light comes on. There isn't an overflow reservoir, that vehicle has a Pressurized Expansion Tank aka Surge Tank with a threaded or twist tight pressure cap.
An Expansion Tank is not the same as an Overflow Reservoir. Overflow Reservoirs are not under pressure, but Expansion Tanks are under the same pressure as the rest of the cooling system at roughly 15 P. The same hot system warning applies and would be printed on the cap, unlike a reservoir cap that is not under pressure. Does this look familiar? Is this Automatic or Manual transmission? You can also pull the plugs when the engine is cold to look for any plugs that are cleaner than the others as water cleans the carbon out of the combustion chamber and cleans the plug tip.
That's the setup.
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It is an automatic. I guess I'll go the plug route because there seems to be no steam coming out the tailpipe. I do know there was never any pressure to speak of in the reservoireven when the car was shut off and boiling.
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By that point there was very little coolant in the tank though. No pressure would very likely indicate a leakage somewhere. I'd also suggest a Pressure Test on the system to see if an obvious leak shows up and to verify the Cap holds pressure. I've had hoses that pinholes develop in where you couldn't find the actual leak until the system was under testing pressure after the system was refilled.
Then it would spray down on the ground so you wouldn't see it when stopped or parked no pressure but at highway speeds just enough pressure would develop to make it drain the system. Also it may possibly be getting blown to the rear of the car on the underside so look for a damp underside starting at the firewall back to the tail end. How's the heat? It should be VERY hot, set on max Get your hand on both heater core lines at the firewall, and see if they are the same temperature.
Post back on it. I can only think of it being either the water pump not circulating correctly or a stuck thermostat. The water pump on a 2.
Chevrolet Cavalier Coolant System Issues
Is there any indication that it would be leaking? A stuck thermostat can also cause this condition, but you would see coolant being blown out of the overflow hose. To me it sounds like a circulation issue, either within the thermostat or the water pump. You might not be seeing the leak, where in fact it could be pushing out steam from the overflow hose. Strangehe has been driving it to work sincecame to supper tonight so checked the reservoir while having a smoke. Seems to be at the right level and he has had no problems with it.
I have to use it tuesdaykms or so and watchit'll leave me stranded. So here's what I was thinking you could try. If you can isolate this leak to a crack in an inlet tube or outlet, I believe those pieces are actually made of plastic. I would try and expose the inlet or outlet as best you can without taking a Sawzall to the firewall JK , and either try and seal the leak with something like Q-Bond plastic adhesive and then slip the hose over the repair and clamp it beyond the crack.
Or, get a piece of plastic tube like out of ABS plastic or PVC that would fit snuggly over the existing inlet or outlet tube. First try and seal the leak with that glue and then glue the piping sleeve on using the Q-Bond glue.
Chevrolet Cavalier Coolant System Issues — Car Forums at ventcumilafas.gq
Let it harden for 24 hours or so before reconnecting the hoses to the new extension s. I say use plastic tube since I haven't actually tried QB with rubber tubing. Then check it for leaks. While it might sound a bit Rube Goldberg-esque, it might keep you out of the Remove the Dash woods. If you get this lash-up to hold, at that point I'd back flush the heater core and probably the whole cooling system.
You can buy Prestone cooling system flush kits at parts stores. They cost less than 10 bucks each. A can of cooling sys. If the part breaks, it was meant to be replaced anyway. Last edit: 6 years 4 months ago by Sparks Seems you accessed an invalid link I don't know. I just clicked on it and it worked. Nobody has ever said anything about the error?
The labor is intensive. On a cavalier, if you don't need the heater, and you cant afford to pay a pro, and you have physical problems, I would just leave it bypassed. If you decide to take it on yourself, here are a few tips for the older GM cars: 1. Dont try to sneak out the heater core without removing the whole dash.
Everything under there is plastic, and is very brittle with age and you will likely break important stuff. Only buy the heater core from the dealer to avoid potential problems. Many of the aftermarket heater cores have flexible aluminum pipes that can kink and bind during installation and potentially crack. If you can find a cheaper part than the dealer, that has rigid heater tubes, that will work too. Most important take your time, and take breaks, when you get frustrated. Dont force anything to come out, because it will probably break, because of its brittleness.
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I spoke to soon. I just got some error for the just answer site. There website or server must be having problems. So its not just you. Thank you everyone for helping out with this one. I know I took one out of my 74 Z back then I would work on anything. I had a lot of patience and it didn't bother me if it took a few days. My son is really patient as well. Real nice person. Very smart, he has his masters degree in Chemical Engineering, 7 years of school, when he has the time to go back to college part time he is months away from his PHD.
So he is very book smart not as hands on as me. He had been thinking about getting a new car within the next months. The problem with taking the dash out is that I have a feeling that it is going to take me more than a few days and this is his only means of going to work and I have a job that I am very busy at so that was why I was looking for any short cuts like the guy that did the video of cutting the lower mounting bracket on the Taurus.
Sorry for half the life story.